“The moment you step foot into ChoLon’s dining room, you grow a little taller, get a little better-looking, and suddenly have a little more money. At least that’s what it feels like, as the high ceilings, giant windows, massive concrete pillars, marble floors, and sleek banquettes come together to create an aura of sophistication and privilege. It’s a nice feeling while it lasts. Better still is chef-owner Lon Symensma’s exuberant menu, inspired by the market goods and street foods of Southeast Asia. There’s a yin-and-yang energy to Symensma’s food, a wonderful tension between the earthy and the ethereal that you can taste for yourself when you order (and you will) what may be his two greatest hits, both umami bombs: the French onion soup dumplings and an elevated take on Singaporean kaya toast that comes with a frothy “egg cloud” for dipping.”
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